LEADQUARTERS › Forums › Student Of The Gun › GOODGUY of the Week (Win Free Stuff!)
Tagged: GOODGUY, safe, slave state, SOTG, Stairs
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June 25, 2014 at 10:20 am #780AescgarParticipant
I have just recently gotten my first ever concealed carry permit, and I want to start carrying immediately. The problem is that whenever I try to conceal IWB, it’s extremely obvious that I’m doing so due to a huge bulge on my right side. Will buying larger pants help, or should I use a smaller gun? My main question/concern is whether or not I should sacrifice firepower for conceal-ability (e.g. .380 instead of 9mm-.45). I am also going to try undershirt underarm carry.
Thank you so much for your help on this! I know there are many others who have wrestled with the question of bigger boom vs. more conceal-ability.P.S. My username is pronounced ASH-gar.
June 25, 2014 at 10:40 am #781MylesKParticipantOn the same note as Aescgar. To what extent is printing aloud. My P238 is barley noticeable but my HK uspc .40 stands out a bit
June 25, 2014 at 10:55 am #783semperlistoParticipantIn response to Aescgar and MylesK, in Texas, concealment means a casual observer doesn’t know from a cursory look that you probably are carrying a firearm. Concealment involves compromise. The deeper the concealment, the more difficult it will likely be to get the weapon out rapidly, but again, you maintain the element of surprise. Concealment is like the Christmas present of a football just wrapped in paper. Who doesn’t know what that is before opening it? Printing is like that. If you have a big gun-shaped bulge on your right hip with the handle poking your shirt out, that’s not really concealed, just covered. I carry a compact, medium sized pistol with a double-stack mag in an Old Faithful IWB holder in about the 4:30 – 5:00 position. Shirts naturally have a blousing effect in back and concealment is enhanced if I wear a plaid and/or dark shirt. I bought some polymer holster loops from holsterloops.com so the metal clips that used to tear up my car seat and couch are replaced. This rig works for me and I hope this comment helps you.
June 25, 2014 at 11:09 am #784zeddingsParticipantJune 25, 2014 at 11:10 am #785zeddingsParticipantJune 25, 2014 at 12:54 pm #786MylesKParticipantThanks Semperlisto, that does help. My usp handle prints a good amount at my 4:30 position, and when I ask my GF what it looks like she says it looks like I have a tumor haha. She says it does not look like a gun but she can notice something is there.
My trouble is I am a skinny guy living in florida so it makes it difficult.
One more note….. If you are having trouble concealing a good thick, stiff gun belt does help big time. Worked for me.
MYLES OVER AND OUT!!!!!
June 26, 2014 at 12:15 pm #803Dov_IsraelParticipantIf someone is forced by necessity to use a bolt-action rifle, or break-barrel shotgun for self defense, what should the person change about their tactics or approach?
June 26, 2014 at 12:41 pm #804kingsalomonParticipantHi Guys,
I hope I’m posting this question in the right place. I just finished reading-
‘If I had a Son’: Race, Guns, and the Railroading of George Zimmerman
. It’s an interesting read with lots of details that I wasn’t aware of. It got me thinking.
Despite the fact that it was clear to police that George Zimmerman acted in self defense, he was charged under the weight of political and social pressure. So my question is: even though Zimmerman didn’t do anything wrong legally, what could he have done differently from a tactical standpoint that may have prevented his troubles (getting attacked, getting arrested, or becoming demonized by the press)? After the incident do you think he should have had public relations help at the beginning to counter the movement against him or would that make him appear like a guilty man trying to spin opinion in his favor?
The only idea I have is that he could have stayed in his truck and driven to the nearest street sign to give the location to the dispatcher instead of getting out. It seems to me that getting out of a vehicle when the situation doesn’t seem right can make you too vulnerable.
July 4, 2014 at 2:27 pm #809MylesKParticipantOk so I live in south florida and I was at a out door flea market today. So after mine and my GF shopping we were leaving and we heard a lady scream and my GF said look that lady tripped. But it looked a little fishy to me so I did a quick scan and saw a man with a white tank top on and red shorts running away. I clearly knew it was a robbery after that. So rather than pursuing him I just went to the lady to make sure she was ok. He only got her gold necklace after forcing her to the ground.
P.s the other 6 people that were around just continued with there day like nothing happened.
I guess my question is in my state of alert do you guys think that was the right choice? I kinda wish I would have done something more but at the same time I was not in danger so I did not feel the need to put myself in danger
And yes I was carrying.
July 9, 2014 at 10:52 pm #815The22ManParticipantShould I use my premium ammo on a long gun to get on paper at 25 then at 100 then sight in at 200 or should I use inexpensive ammo for the 25 and 100 yard shots?
Today cost me 57 round of premium 308 because at 100 yards, round 8 I noticed the scope mount was loose. Took off, locktight / red, installed back then 12 more rounds at 100. Went to 200 yards, found 1st round the trigger guard bit me. 1 of 3 screws holding rifle to stock was 4 or 5 turns loose. Tightened up, checked at 100 and was now 6” low, stat over…July 14, 2014 at 4:01 pm #820DanParticipantHello,
I am a Military rendered/retired quadriplegic. I have some function of my extremities and consider myself lucky. I still can shoot well. I am wondering if you have heard of places/people/products that are designed or altered for those like me with limited function?
I have limited sensory feed back so I do not feel pain which is a bit of a problem relating to heavy recoil. I do use recoil protection on my AK but in many cases these products are not made for most uses. Butt pads for shotgun use are helpful but not always adequate.
Are there companies out there who sell products for the disabled that also do not require the cost of an arm or a leg? What little I have I would like to keep.July 16, 2014 at 8:57 pm #821The22ManParticipantI have a “backup” iron site question.
recently the new iron sights at an angle are getting popular, for years, I have used them in line with my optic with the theory that if the scope is down I still “view” the same way, down side if the damaged optic blocks the view.
What is your view on in-line compared to angled backup sights?July 16, 2014 at 10:10 pm #822DanParticipantThe 22 Man,
It is important to remember the original slanted adjustable sights for range were designed with the original ammo load in mind and are based on ballistic drop. With newer scopes using graduated reticule the drop marked by the reticule is an approximation. Which makes sighting in even more important in regards to distance. If you have a favorite stand location your height in the stand is not as important as knowing the distance because drop remains the same.
In Alaska I would use a street lamp measured at a quarter mile away (440 yards) to bore sight the scope on. I would remove the bolt and look center on the bore at night placing the street lamp dead center locking the rifle in that position. Then I would set the scope cross hairs. Once the bore was sighted then in the day I would plant a 4×4 at the 440 yard mark the height off with electrical tape on a white painted background. Using a spotting scope and a flag to determine wind direction I would do a final sight in for drop guesstimating windage.
On the original iron sights the “factory” yardage was fairly accurate and only the horizontal drift was necessary to adjust the sights for on a windless day.
My best kill on that rifle with the scope was at about 490 yards on a caribou on Adak Alaska with an 18 knot wind. On the iron sights, it was 330 yards with a 6 knot wind. That was a fun one though because the caribou disappeared immediately when it slipped sideways about a foot and down into an over grown 2.5 foot wide ravine 5 foot deep standing up. If it were not for the antlers barely sticking up I would not have seen it at all. I love Alaska!
I do not know if that helped answer your question or caused more confusion.
Oh and the rifle was a Moisin Nagant 1942 M91/30 7.65x54R
July 16, 2014 at 11:08 pm #825The22ManParticipantLove the Moisin Nagant, with my first (unfortunately sold it) I could it clay pigeons and big pieces of them open sights at 200 yards.
Still not sure on the sights. My 5.56 I have Magpul BUS and a Trijicon tripower. I have both in line (pop up the sights and they are in line with the Trijicon) and both set at 100 yards, with my preferred round.
I am thinking of making some changes on my 308. Right now I have the flip up sights set up for 100 yards (sighted in before the scope was installed) and the scope sighted in at 200 yards with my preferred round.
Problem is looking through the irons with the scope still attached is very difficult, so should is “align” them with the scope at 200 or ditch them and get one of the 45 degree sets and sight them at 100 and then “tilt” the rifle like I have seen in 3 gun or leave them alone.July 17, 2014 at 7:57 am #826DanParticipant22,
Perhaps the best choice is a Picatinny arrangement that allows for the original iron sights with a quick release for the scope. Installed the scope will protect the rear sight and keep it sighted in.If you still are interested in the Moisin they are $165 from Cheaperthandirt.com and the ammo today is $89 for 440 rounds. I just purchased two “new” cosmoline soaked units in perfect condition with all the issue gear.
The rear sight is also 11.5 mm ready for a picatinny mount which will then accommodate a rear mounted scope but it is necessary to have the bolt modified (lowered) to clear the scope when installed.
That mod then allows the Moisin to be converted to a sniper rifle configuration. The cost for the Bolt mod was $35 on Ebay. Send the original in and get it back within 30 days. However if you can silver solder you can do it yourself with a grade 8 bolt and a little garage work.
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